Monday, 30 August 2010

Fringey-ness Part Purple

 Yester-morn I went to another art gallery, this time a modern art one. Those of you who know me somewhat probably know that I don't care much for most modern art. Not all, there's some that I really enjoy and would like to own, maybe in order to scare small children (why is modern art always so dark and morbid?) Well, if it isn't dark, then usually its quite derivative. I know a series of four white canvas's are suppose to convey purity and simplicity, but its not going to catch the average viewers attention or move them. No, no, it just comes off as pretentious and not worth while. Well, rant aside, you should know that I did enjoy viewing the artwork there, I just didn't spend a couple hours like I did at the other, more masterfully artistic gallery.

Afterwards I went to a show called "Penelope," and it is certainly the best show I've seen here (I did research this time to find one of the better shows in town). It's an Irish play about four suitors of Penelope set in modern times. Penelope is Greek myth is the wife of Odysseus who waits for him to return home after many years while many suitors compete for her. These four are the last ones left, but they all had the same dream of Penelope's husband returning and brutally maiming them (as the myth goes). The four may (or may not) join forces in the effort to have one of them win in order to not die. But they all love her, and they start to feel the pain of all the years wasted trying to woo her. The play knew when to be funny when it wanted to, but also to be sincerely heart-rending with some damn good writing. So good, I bought the script and am reading through it. The playwright (Enda Walsh) is apparently on the rise. This is what the Irish lady sitting next to me was telling me about. I think she knew him or something, I don't quite remember what she said. Had a good conversation with her. Anyways, she told me that the writing in the play is brilliant not just for the dialogue, but the stage direction as well. She's quite right, the playwright knew exactly what he wanted at all times, and goes into great detail in the direction (which playwrights don't often do). Everything was so pin-pointed and strongly directed that it felt like every movement had a great significance.

That night I went out to an open session with an American couple and a Swiss pair (brother and sister) I met at the hostel. An open session is when there's music playing in a pub, but not for professional reasons. Usually there with be a leader or sorts, this time an older gent on the fiddle who brought a stand-up bass with him. The "designated" musicians typically bring instruments, but they'll give up their spot for a stranger to play (I believe the only expectation is that you know what you're doing). Now I know what you're thinking--this isn't a bunch of hippies getting together to strum like at Lewis & Clark, these guys are good and very adaptable! (not that you're not good Zach, but some guitars and bongos aren't as complex as some fiddles, flutes, bass, etc.) For the most part they played traditional folk music, but they played some American folk as well (this one Australian joined in to sing something about Tennessee whiskey with his buddy back-up vocalizing). Anyways, you have this table of random musicians in a tiny (and I mean tiny) corner pub stuffed with people, just grab some beer and whisky, and you'll easily start to feel in good company.

Today was the last day of the fringe, and after seeing the wonderful "Penelope," I opted for something less dramatic. This was "Next!" Basically it was a very small, intimate show about this woman directly talking to the audience about her experiences being rejected in the acting world. She's one of those actresses that only gets small, forgettable parts on the 'tele' or film and must go through the the harsh process of auditioning every day. Her stories are quite funny in a sad way, because haven't we all been there, not amounting to what we've hoped for but continue to strive on?

Other than that, I just kind of wondered around today and sat in a whisky bar. I went to this rather swanky (in appearance) place that had a huge selection of Scotch whiskies. It was a store/restaurant/bar. There I saw a 50 year bottle for only 7500 pounds! Anyways, I sat at the bar and started to talk to the bar-tender about whisky, and he was quite the guru. Well, I imagine all Scotsman are Whisky wise men or sages. I tasted about three whiskies for only around 10 pounds!  This is good stuff mind you, in the states it would be 7 bucks for one (and I'm talking Bourbon here, not imported stuff. And Johnnie Walker isn't this quality either!) It's much more accessible to taste whisky here, they sell little bottles as well! So I was tasting while he taught me about the types, what peated is, regions and so on. I enjoyed all three, but the Edradour (one of the smaller distilleries in Scotland actually) was my favorite, but the Belhavie was good as well. I finished off with the heavily peated one (I forget the name). The more peated the smokier the taste. This Whisky was like liquid bonfire. I enjoyed it a lot actually, but I would prefer it not to be so forest fiery. Anyways, more useless facts. Scotch whisky is usually marketed after 10 years (if it doesn't say the age, then it's less), and the sage told me it definitely makes a difference in taste for the older, expensive whiskies (but he admits that for the price it may not be worth it, but it's a once in a lifetime thing you must do if you like whisky, and it is amazing (he told me about nirvana being acheived after tasting a 60+ year old one (just kidding, but he is quite wisened). Anyways, expect me to come back a whisky snob.

Overall, I'm very glad I left early for the fringe. Edinburgh is a wonderful, beautiful city, but I'm just about ready to see the Scotland everyone thinks off -- the country side. I've had some good conversations, some of them with Scottish people, but for the most part it was with various types of peoples. Germans, Swiss, Aussies, and so on. It's just too touristy to really get the sense of Scotland. That's why this morning, trying to figure out what to do with the next couple days, I've decided to head up north for three nights in Inverness, the curtural capital of the highlands. It will still be touristy I'm sure, but it will be a great change of pace from the fringe. It'll be a four hour train ride through the mountains, which will certainly be magnificient.

Saturday, 28 August 2010

Fringey-ness Part II

More shows. Yesterday I went to "The Cure." Not the band, but the play going on here. It was a normal one for a change! And by normal, I mean it dealt with two homosexual friends (a male and a female) and the male's hidden passion and confused lust for her. It was well acted with some funny parts to it, and the ending was pretty damn amazing in regards to the rehearsal process they must have gone through. He spoke and she lip-synced to him. Later that night I went to a jazz club. The singer had a good voice, it was good... I don't really need to go into detail with music. You just sorta sit there and enjoy it.

Today I saw "A Dream Play." It was intriguing and quite visual, but came off as a bit trite. Not to say I didn't enjoy it. It was just all over the place and a bit much to comprehend. But that is the point, as dreams are like that. The actors were color coded and had shawl things they used for props.

A lot of performers are staying at the hostel I'm in (which by the way, is a really great place; it has a funky atmosphere and is in a great location right below the castle. It's called the Castle Rock Hostel, and I recommend it). Anyways, while cooking and eating dinner last night, I talked to some actors who've been here longer and got recommendations from them. This morning, I exited my room to discover the woman from "Tokyo Love Song" (Shoto Ita, or something) is living in the room next to me. She came out just as I was and I gave her some "good work" or some encouragement like that. Later on I saw her rehearsing in a common room.

I haven't really talked much about Edinburgh yet. Well, you got this castle in the middle of town all perched up on a cliff. The road leading up to the castle (the Royal Mile) is where a lot of tourism takes place. You'll find more cashmere shops on this road than Starbucks in Seattle. No kidding, there could be like 4 or 5 in a row on one side. I was going to buy one yesterday because they had them marked down half price (only 15 pounds) but I had no quids left on me. I figured to try today, but they marked them back up for the weekend! Hopefully they'll cut them down for the last day. The Royal Mile is also where many of the street performers are and where the box office is (although if you're smart, you simply get a show in mind and just buy the ticket at the venue. That way you don't wait in line like an idiot tourist).

For the most part, the fringe is located in Old Town. Old Town in general feels like a castle on a hill. Notoriously crowded during the 18th century, Old Town has 4 story buildings with no separation between them, rising with the hill. Sometimes you get quaint little alleys that decline to the next parallel street, often with hideaway pubs. To the north of the Castle is New Town, which was planned out in the 18th century to counter the city's crowded problems (I learned this shit in a museum homes!) New Town is certainly more spaced out, business oriented, and less touristy, but is lined up with H&M and other trendy shops I'm sure you can find in other cities.

On the New Town side is the Sir Walter Scott monument - a tall citadel of sorts you can walk up for amazing views of the city. The stair case is a narrow circular shaft where you pray not to meet someone on the way down, which surely will happen. You just hug the wall and they should be able to squeeze past you. At the top you'll find  a great view of the castle as well as King Arthur's seat (the craggy mountain to the southeast of Old Town that I hiked up yesterday.

Other than that, I went to a fantastic art museum today that had some impressive art nouveau pieces from Scottish artists I have not heard of (I know of Macintosh and the Glasgow boys, I'm not talking about them). I must have spent at least two hours there. Also, I had my first haggis today, and willikers was it surprisingly good! Just don't ask what it is (Sheep heart, lungs, liver minced up with onions, spices and such, cooked inside the stomach (apparently the stomach technique isn't used that much anymore)). Mix it up with some neeps and tatties and then pour some whisky on top and you're golden!

As for the beer, I am now in love with Belhaven's Best. Why the hell don't they export it to the states? Its creamy and smooth like a Guinness, but its an amber color draft with a great flavor I can't pinpoint. The Deuchar IPA however was dissapointing. It's very weak sauce compared to American IPA's, in hoppiness and flavor in general.

Next time, I'll fill you guys in with the rest of my Fringe experience. Till then, as everyone says here, Cheers!

Friday, 27 August 2010

Fringey-ness Part I

Hey all. I've decided to do a blog thinger. NO I am not indulging myself. This thing is for myself to remember events and I don't give a damn about your reading pleasure! OK, I lie, maybe I do. I named it Highland Swing because, I don't know, It should be all Scottish and stuff. Also, its the name of my favorite trail at Hidden Valley, the dinky little hill I learned to ski. Anyways, I've been here for two days now, and here's the deal.

The sun was rising as I left my connection in Dublin. Across the Irish sea, strange cloud formations like long crop mounds stretched below us. Then a coast appeared, and eventually barren, craggy hills. A misty veil sprawled between the contours of these mountains, flowing like a river. For a moment I couldn't even tell if it were fog. It looked like the clouds clung onto the soil, making the earth look rather sheepish.

Beautiful right? But aw crap, my luggage wasn't there when I arrived! That didn't really bother me however (they were excellent at getting it to me the next morning, so no biggie). However, it left me a little discombobulated. Well, mostly it was the sleep deprivation. In my confusion and inattention, I walked past customs. They too, were inattentive. Usually this would be a great thing, but I had some Visa letter thing I may have needed to show them. I tried to go back, but the apparently impenetrable gate thing was shut. I talked to some security guy who had a lovely Scots accent, notifying him of my plight, but he said I'd have to go through security and everything. He basically told me to be thankful walking past them, and not to worry about it. That I did. I'll figure out the whole visa thing when I see Mr. Professor Man (the group leader) in Glasgow.

Oh, for those who do not know, I left earlier than the I needed for the abroad program in order to see the Fringe festival in Edinburgh. This is the largest arts festival in the world! There are hundreds of shows going on here throughout the month of August. It is really disorienting to figure out which shows to go too. A horde of brochure people help and don't help advertising them. Many of them sound so interesting, but at the box office for the first time I had no idea which to go for. I ended up seeing "Wolf," which was interesting. Hhmyes, it was a very intimate piece where the audience stands up while the actors interact with them. And by interact, I mean act like wolves, sniffing and gnawing them. I think this one she-wolf fancied me, as she bit my shoulder and kept grinding her butt against me (she cornered me against other people; otherwise, as a respectable young man, I would not allow it!) Anyways, it dealt with folklore and various stories on Wolves. It ended up being surprisingly enjoyable (not just because of the she-wolf, I swear!)

By this time I was half-dead from sleepyness and hunger, so I got some fish n' chips and took a nap. Afterwords I got a ticket for "Tokyo Love Song" which I kept hearing was excellent, and enjoyed the street performers. It's fun to see a crowd swarm around these guys in the middle of the street. This swell magician, who was also quite comical and witty, selected me out and had a wonderful time joking about America (don't fret, he made fun of many peoples, especially the English in true Scotsman fashion). The Tokyo show weirded me out at first; it was very Japanese-y, if you know what I mean. But she (it was a solo act) grew on me as it continued.

Anyways, I haven't even mentioned today, or other things, but this is getting quite long. Part II tomorrow.